A CHEF IN THE FAMILY
We first encountered Marcia Binnie Leventhal aboard the good ship Maasdam, docked in New York Harbour, on its way to Europe, across the Atlantic.
'Marcia'
It was the way a lot of people travelled then. We have remained friends ever since. Marcia, also known as MBL, has had a brilliant career in academia, with a doctorate in Clinical Psychology; she was one of the originators of dance as a healing art – a method she has taught all over the world. Besides that, she has also had an acting career.
So, what about the shooting and/or fishing? You may well ask. Dangling in the Australian water, she was worried the sharks might get her, but she did go snorkelling once. A giant grouper confronted her, nose to nose, which caused a certain amount of anxiety, more for her than for the fish. It was explained that the grouper just wanted to see who was behind the mask.
Marcia directed me toward people of relevance – for example, Dr Dossey, who has a chapter in his book on health, explaining that fly fishing is not next to godliness, but is godliness itself. Standing in the water, trying to get a trout with a fly, you are not alone, God is there with you, approving. Okay, if fly fishing has spiritual connotations, I'm deeply grateful to Marcia for having found someone who has elevated me thus.
And now close to home, she has discovered her niece Robin Leventhal for me, who is not only a celebrity Chef, but a fly-fishing person who ties her own flies – and doesn't throw back the catch.
'Robin lands a big one'
Robin tells about herself:
I became a fisherperson when I was a teenager. In Idaho where I grew up I only fly fished. Trout and steelhead were the prized catches. I had no interest in lure fishing on a lake.
It was not until I was cooking in the Caribbean that I learned the wonders of deep sea fishing. What a great experience that was!
Living in Seattle I am amazed that I've never gone salmon fishing. This is all going to change now that I have seen the magic of fishing at sea!
I have always been interested in the crafts and using my hands. It was rather random that I fell in love with the art of tying flies, not for their use in fishing. Instead, it was their miniature beauty and the idea of mimicking nature that held my fascination as a child. My parents reaped the benefit of these creations as they were very much fly-fisher people. I never was interested in the fishing part until I was a teenager and had a friend who was a guide. That was a revelation to me, the idea of using these flies I had been tying for over ten years!
'Kissing the mahi'
Let's hear more about Robin and what she is doing currently:
What's Robin Leventhal, Seattle restaurateur and former "Top Chef" competitor, doing going to work for a community-based Jewish delicatessen on Mercer Island? The answer that comes to her mind: Kismet. | |
"It's been a magical process," Robin says. "I truly feel like this has been a gift." Stopsky's Delicatessen, which opened on "the rock" under the directorship of locals Jeff and Lara Sanderson, features traditional Jewish food "updated", calling on Northwest resources and fusing them with an international flavour palate. Robin will take the helm as chef. | |
Perhaps surpassingly, Robin spoke less like a competitive chef and more like a girl in love, frequently describing her job in spiritual terms. | |
"This is a heritage project," Robin says. "This is a business model that is about community." | |
Stopsky's focus is on community as much as it is about food, and will feature panels about local families and history on its walls. | |
"It's about a celebration of love," Robin says. "We need community and that sustenance. That's what drives me in life." | |
 'Pot snappers' |
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What brought Robin and the Sandersons together, however, is not nearly as romantic: the Sandersons made a cold call. "Lara did some research," Robin explains, "She stumbled across my name, was endeared by my spirit…my history and my work experience." Instead of consulting, Robin offered to be the chef. The result "is bringing their vision to light paired with my creativity." | |
Robin was planning on a job as a corporate chef before the opportunity to work for Stopsky's presented itself but, she says, "I wasn't feeling the passion." | |
Robin, who studied ceramics in college and originally thought she would like to go into advertising, thought that after her experience on the popular Bravo network reality show she might take her career in another direction. | |
"I thought I would get away from the kitchen," she says. "I kind of walked away from part of it because it wasn't true to who I was." | |
‘She started to design a tableware line but became disillusioned. "I don't like to spend my time doing things that are meaningless." | |
As for her "Top Chef" claim to fame? | |
"It's a piece of me. It is not what defines me," she says. | |
The kitchen, ironically is "still dominated by men." Despite great female chef role models, Robin admits, "It is not for the weak." Her own innate competitive personality gave her the strength to push through the drama. | |
"I was a fighter before agreeing to take that challenge on." | |
That competitive edge in large part comes from her business-oriented, independent mother, who raised her to be tough. | |
"I'm not afraid to voice my opinion," Robin says. | |
This character trait surely comes into play regarding her health: Robins' experience with lymphoma, which is in permanent remission. Her lymphoma will be with her throughout her lifetime. Still she says "My health is a gift." And she doesn't necessary mean a gift to herself: Ten per cent of pickle sales at Stopsky's will benefit the Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center. | |
Robin added that her Jewish roots factor into her strong character, even though she was raised in Idaho without a strong sense of identity or community. | |
"There is a part of me that's a little lost," she says. "At the same time I feel very lucky that I am Jewish. It has given me strength and spirit," she says. "I feel like I am worldly because of my Jewish heritage. I'm proud to be Jewish, I feel really lucky to have that part of my cultural makeup." | |
The fluidity of identity informs Robin's approach to the kitchen and to her relationship with Stopsky's, which she wants to take beyond the standard delicatessen menu to embrace world cuisines. She has what she calls "perfect creative licence" Robin says. "I've been given the perfect job!" |
One of Robin's recipes:
'Ceviche'
SALMON CEVICHE WITH PRESERVED (MEYER) LEMON. CUCUMBER & TARRAGON
Ceviche: | |
4 oz. Fresh Salmon (preferably wild, not farm raised) diced | |
Procedure: | |
| |
Gently cut salmon into 1/4 inch cubes and cover with the "bath" of juices. | |
Let rest long enough for the outside to become slightly opaque ( about 20 minutes). | |
Once fish has "Cooked" in the juice drain it and gently mix with the remaining ingredients | |
Presentation: | |
Enjoy on a bed of greens for a healthy summer salad, or serve as an appetizer with crisp endive leaves, cucumber rounds, tortilla chips. | |
Or fill the cavity of half an avocado for a heavenly and healthy lunch | |
You can look forward to more from Robin in the next issue. |
© Sidney Du Broff 2011
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